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As it's pooling in the centre of the floor, this suggests it's outside of the tray, and may well just be down to the tiles not being level when you laid them. Put a level across the tiles, and check for any dips first.

Thanks for that; I'm using Setcrete acrylic prinmer on the job, and it's 1:4 for porous material, and neat for impervious.

is that xps boards as well, and if so (as I'm about to lay some) what ratio primer to water please

I was obviously wrong. Antonios system does seem epoxy based, but doesn't seem the same as I've been researching. This type of flooring is pretty common in America, and there's a lot of stuff on youtube as to how to apply it, but I've only come across one supplier in England, and he's not...

I suspect Antonio is talking about Italian plaster effect for walls, and Protiler is after epoxy resin for floors floors.

Any suggestions for good blades guys; I'm just about to do some porcelain tiles.

Looking at the discolouration on top of the screed, it looks as though waters been added, but I suspect not enough. I reckon the builders treated the SLC as a cement screed, and only added a minimal amount of water. As previous comments have suggested, carefully lift the electric mat, dust it...

There's no real place for this thread, so here goes. The house was built 1930 (by gerry builders) and has a 4" aggregate floor in the kithen, and seems to have a painted DPM about half inch below the floor level, then a light screed of sorts before the tiles were laid, and then the last owners...

Okay, back to basics. A damp wall will loosen off any normal adhesive you use to tile with, or soak into plasterboard that you dot and dab. The trick is to stop the damp coming through, so you either use the hardibacker/Aquapanel type board to seal the wall, but this will create damp air behind...

Damp bricks take about a month per inch to dry out. If you're down to bare brick, then the normal way would be sand and cement with a waterproof render in it, but you should use a washed sand. The drawback is it'sll take a few weeks to dry. If you want to get on with the work quickly, then...

Alternatively, go talk to your local woodburning stove shop, and see about vermiculite heat resistant board, or Vitcas heat resistant plaster.

It sounds as though there's a pattern to the cracks, what's behind the pattern that's causing movement. I get the impression that the studwork isn't completely stable and secure, and it definitely shouldn't have been built requiring filling in. The studwork would normally be dry enough, so...

Assuming the electricians have done the job properly, and working on the basis that it's a ring main circuit with 2 wires in the back of the socket, then there's no way you'll get the faceplate through the hole in the tile. Cut the hole in the tile to the size of the backplate, take the socket...