cracks in new travertine floor: advice needed!

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On top of all the above BS 5385 : Part 3 : 2007 also recommends in clause 6.3.4.2 “If it is considered necessary to further reduce or eliminate the risk of movement, an additional layer of sheets of minimum thickness 10mm, resistant to moisture and thermal movement, should be screwed over the plywood at 300mm centres ensuring that the joints in both layers of sheets do not coincide”.

In other words 6mm backer board is to thin.
 
On top of all the above BS 5385 : Part 3 : 2007 also recommends in clause 6.3.4.2 “If it is considered necessary to further reduce or eliminate the risk of movement, an additional layer of sheets of minimum thickness 10mm, resistant to moisture and thermal movement, should be screwed over the plywood at 300mm centres ensuring that the joints in both layers of sheets do not coincide”.

In other words 6mm backer board is to thin.

Thats interesting
 
There will be no need for additional sheets.This job has failed because,floor not secured properly,backerboard had no adhesive under it,so had voids,and dot and dab tiles.I have been to this job & client is having all floor taken up to start again.
 
you wouldn't use backer board to *(further reduce or eliminate the risk of movement,) or i wouldn't. For me it is just to give a suitable sub straight to tile on. so in that respect you can use 4mm.:smilewinkgrin:* *
 
trav,underfloor heating and wood floor,3 words that IMO should not be in the same sentance,the SLIGHTEST bit of movment and trav cracks,it has no resistance to movement at all,far too soft. looks the dogs though 😉
 
you wouldn't use backer board to *(further reduce or eliminate the risk of movement,) or i wouldn't. For me it is just to give a suitable sub straight to tile on. so in that respect you can use 4mm.:smilewinkgrin:* *
How would you make sure you're wooden floor is rigid enough?
 
If the wooden floor had any deflection in it the backer boards would not be enough to take care of it. The backer boards are designed to give a really good surface to tile onto, not strengthen a floor. The wooden floor would need to be fixed down and screwed to death through the joists and is needed then extra noggins added. IMO this is the most important stage of tiling onto a wooden floor. Then when the floor is deflection free, you can over boards with a tile backer board and you should have a really good floor ready for tiling.
 

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cracks in new travertine floor: advice needed!
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