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Dynamic tiling, I mean this with the best intentions possible as constructive advice, it may be a question I suppose also?
What type of and what manufacturer of slc have you used in the past?
Did you prime the substrate before hand therefore reducing dehydration and improving adhesion of the slc?
Any good quality fibre reinforced slc on a primed floor on top of eufh will not fail. If an eufh mat is not incased in slc it is at increased risk of failure due to the speradic air pockets causing isolated parts of the eufh matt to over heat in those areas and cause 'burn' out.
Most credible makes of fibre reinforced slc have at least 30Nm bstrength minimum, which is a lot more than nearly all sand and cement or anhydrite screeds.
Since I started tiling roughly 20 odd years ago 80% of my work is commercial with architects and designers involved in every thing I do and always it's stated due to the fire risk that timber substrates are not permitted with eufh.
I know you didn't start this thread for this and you've end up getting your b**s busted. I think sometimes people can be harsh, but consider also though that it's mostly advise.
Most of the wise ones on this forum know that EVERY day is a school day.
I can't quantify what I've learnt on this forum, but from a professional and educational point of view joining it has been one of the best things I've done.

Personally I always bond all floors with bal sbr. I use mapei latex plus (not water) to mix adhesive on wooden floors (kera quick rapid set flexi) . Upon contact, this stuff grips tighter than a gold diggers claws onto a rich old man.

I have used numerous slc brands, expensive, cheap etc. Followed the instructions step by step word by word. I have also had my guys prep other floors, 'their' own ways with slc. Again I wasn't impressed with the results. Nearly as bad a product as anhydrite screed. That pish only suits the guys that take 20mins to pump it out of hose and charge a fortune for the privilege. My opinion is flexi adhesive is tried and tested, solid as a rock and hour later.

Ufh heating cables are very strong. It will take a fair dunt off of a chisel to split it. Even using a metal tile serator, if you can split a ufh cable with merely spreading a floor. Your a wasted talent, Your gig is definitely arm wrestling world champion or a TV double as the incredible hulk!
 
I love.
these guys motivated. and hard.
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nice window cill, i want one.

i can find fault with the tiling but im sure you could with mine, its probably not fair to criticise too much as a photo only tells half a story. if id miscalculated my yard stick and was running out to a top gap like that id be ripping up tile boxes to add 1/3 - 1/4mm to my vertical spaces till it was acceptable.

do disagree with your slc comments & never had a problem with it except when ive f'''ed up the mixing. IMHO it is not watered down screed & im no scientist but the particle size is very different. i did damage some slc the other week on a rush job but it was only 5 hours old and i was trying to carry a customers cooker across it on my own when i had to rest half way digging one of the feet in when i put it down, not as strong as i was.

estimating the time to do that job in my head, yes 5 days is possible but if keep in the back of my mind i likely be working the weekend too especially if relying on other trades.
 
I have no personal agenda or whatever, a few people have tried to advice on a few points and you get on your high horse. As your being a mardy bum,

Porcelanosa Bathroom Remodeling


The trim to the sloped ceiling is a terrible finish, as a couple of cuts to the ceiling near the door, but you know best
 
I have used slc hundreds of times as have others on here and thousands of other people, but we must be all mad because it's crap!
 
I know my limitations when a regular tiler suggested eliminating the gap at the top
by widening the grout line. Spaced out on a floor to ceiling batten may work but boxes
of metros nominally 100mm ? It looked good enough for me at the sill .
 
Job I'm on at present, ufh on top of ply.
Not my choice to overlay with ply but you have to go with what's there.
I normally use a 200w heat mat but as this was over ply then dropped the wattage to 160w.
Slc is Mapei renovation screed & rock solid once set.
I always encase my heat mats in a slc as it helps heat distribution & reduces risk of burn out from pockets of air trapped by just going over the cable with addy.

image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
I know my limitations when a regular tiler suggested eliminating the gap at the top
by widening the grout line. Spaced out on a floor to ceiling batten may work but boxes
of metros nominally 100mm ? It looked good enough for me at the sill .
I was genuinly saying i liked the window cill. it wasnt a criticism, i wasnt even refering to the tiling, i just like the window board/cill.
 

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