Hi, looking for some support with first travertine bathroom. Thank you

[Beags]

Hi everyone,

I'm a couple of weeks away from beginning my first tiling job in my bathroom. I've been searching this site for several days now and have a few ideas but there's just so much to absorb and I would be really grateful for some clarity.

I'd like to be able to give something back but at the moment I'm all questions - one day I hope!

My plan for my 10ft by 7ft victorian terrace bathroom is as follows....

• full pedestal basin, close coupled toilet, bath with shower over and valves etc built behind a pertition wall, victorian style radiator & one window to tile around.
• 12mm 400mm x 400mm medium unfilled travertine floor tiles
• 12mm 400mm x 600mm medium unfilled travetine wall tiles
• Currently cermaic tiles on skimmed plasterboard which I plan to remove and replace with new plasterboard. I don't think there is a stud wall behind the plasterboard but just the old brickwork, I suspect it is bonded rather than screwed and plugged
• I believe the floor is currently ply wood which I may replace with the same to keep cost to a miniumum

I would appreciate help from anyone with a few questions which are:

1. Can I replace the plasterboard and using a dot & dab technique rather than plugging and screwing into the old brickwork?
2. What adhesive should I use for a) the floor and b) the walls? Can I use the same stuff? Waterproof for all the room?
3. Do I need to prime the plaster board? If so, with what?
4. Should I seal before laying the tiles as well as after?
5. What's a good colour grout for medium coloured travertine and leading from that question, what grout should I use?
6. When grouting, can I spread the grout over the entire tile as you would with ceramic or do I need to be more precise when filling the gaps on travertine?
7. What's a good tile spacer size for these size tiles?
8. Best notch size for spreading adhesive on walls and floor?
9. How big a gap should I leave between where the bottom wall tile meets the floor tile... and what about internal corners?
10. I'm going to get a Rubi 180 for this job. What do I need for drilling though the tiles for radiator pipes and other fixtures and fittings such as toilet roll holder and towel rail?
11. Do I need to use silicone anywhere? If so, what would you recommend?
12. Is anyone against using Lithofin sealants? If not, what specific product should I use to keep the stone looking as natural as possible?
13. Presumably the process is... remove existing tiles and suite, temporary fit new sanitaryware, sort plumbing, remove new sanitaryware, tile walls (apart from bottom tile), tile floor, tile bottom wall tile, final for on new sanitaryware? Does anyone disagree?

I think that's it for now. Sorry to be so prescriptive but it helps me to try lay my thoughts out on paper (head's all over the shop at the minute).

Thank you very much
Chris

 

[Daz]

Hi Aqua,

Thanks for the vid etc..

I have just a couple of queries for you.....

You suggested to the OP that Opticolour could be used instead of tanking, and yet the third bullet point in the "Technical Notes" section of the flyer states "Use a waterproofing membrane when required". I could only find a statement from Mapei that says stain resistant, not waterproof.

Opticolour does not appear on the Mapei UK website. Any idea who stocks it in the UK, I wouldn't mind getting a quote from a UK company to see how it compares with other grouts.

TIA.

 

[aqua blue]

Captain Slow, I will double check with Mapei and post results.

http://www.tilersforums.com/us-canadian-tile-setting-forum-tile/8690-mapei-opticolor-new-grout.html

Here, William has tested this resin based grout. However, Mapei as you rightly state suggest a membrane. ?? Worth me checking as I'm also interested in this product.

 

[Beags]

Hi,

Assuming I go with plasterboard on the walls and plywood on the floor :mad2: , would I really get away with just using primer G on them both or do I need to consider these ADP and SBR products I've heard a little about?

I may go for a hardibacker bath panel as this is probably the area at most risk. If I do this do I need to tape the joints or prime with something different?

Also, with a plywood floor would I need Primer G on both sides and what about hardibacker on the bath panel?

 

[aqua blue]

I would use primer G on the plasterboard but would not trust tiling on ply personally.
I would overboard the floor. The bath panel is less important than the floor.

Captain Slow, I have found that Mapei don't distribute Opticolour to the UK, so it's back to Kerapoxy if you like to tackle water at source.

 

[faithhealer]

Quote

1. Presumably the process is... remove existing tiles and suite, temporary fit new sanitaryware, sort plumbing, remove new sanitaryware, tile walls (apart from bottom tile), tile floor, tile bottom wall tile, final for on new sanitaryware? Does anyone disagree?

Hi Beags, thats sounds easy when you say it fast! how much time are you giving yourself for this project.

 

[Beags]

I dare not say out loud. We only have one bathroom so I suspect the good lady is going to be visitng M&S's loos for a while longer than currently promised
I'm hope to have most of the prep work done by 28th March. I have a week off work from 29th onwards which includes a Bank Holiday monday so 8 days at it (also bearing in mind I have a 16 week old little girl who doesn;t like me banging past 7pm at night'

.... don't say it!

 

[Beags]

Took a trip to Tile Giant at the weekend. Went in looking for Keraflex Maxi but they didn't have any so ended up walking out with Keraquick for the same price. Not sure if that was such a good decision given I'm new to tiling. I guess I'll be mixing lots of small quantities.

Anyway, the chap there recommended LTP Grimex to clean my travertine. I have a question about the order I should do things. My current plan is...

Lay travertine
Use Grimex
Seal with MN Stain Stop
Grout
Use Grimex
Sealwith MN Stain Stop

Does this sound ok or am I going to run into any problems?

Also, had the tiles delivered today. They arrived in a crate and had clearly been stored outside as the tiles are wet. I don't have a lot of room in the house so I'm spreading them out and drying them off. Presumably they need to be bone dry before laying?

Cheers
Chris

 

[Daz]

Chris,

Just to confirm, are you still intending to use unfilled travertine?

If it is unfilled, I would hesitate with the sealing prior to grouting as it will prevent the grout grabbing in the unfilled holes.

I would use your judgement with regards to the Grimex, too. If you work cleanly and remove excess adhesive from the grout joints as you go, and just keep washing down and working with clean water you may not need to worry about using the Grimex.

Follow the instructions carefully on the grout bag and clean it appropriately in two or three careful washes and you wont need to worry about the Grimex at that stage either.

One last tip, make sure that you let the travertine dry fully before applying the sealer, i.e. at least 24 hours but longer if you can.

Good luck and I'm looking forward to the pics .

Daz

 

[poppyhendy]

Hi Chris,

Looks like you are well and truely sorted for advice. I work for a stone tile company rather than being a tiler but if you wanted to have a chat about anything re the actual stone itself I'll gladly help. That goes for anyone with stone questions.

Cheers

Abbi

 

[Beags]

Thanks once again, Daz.

The travertine is honed and filled so I take it I should be ok sealing before grouting.

Thanks for the tip on drying the tiles fully before sealing - very useful. I mentioned that the tiles were really wet when delivered so I'm spreading them out around the house to dry them out. As they dry they are obviously changing colour and becoming lighter. The dying is also showing up all the dust from the stone. From other threads and what I've picked up so far I understand that I need to ensure all this has done before sealing and or grouting otherwise I could end up sealing in the dust leaving me with a 'film'. My question is - what's the best way to do this without soaking the tiles again and subsequently having to wait for them to dry. Can I just use a damp cloth over each one before I lay them or should I use the Grimex? Should I even bother doing this before laying them (as they'll get a little "dirty" when laying anyway)?

Abbi - thank you for your offer of help.

 

[poppyhendy]

Hi Chris,

We would usually advise people to use a cloth dampened with warm water. You can use a washing up sponge as long as its white if you need something with a bit more umf to get rid of the dust. Just dont use anything coloured in case it stains the un-sealed tile. As long as the sponge/cloth isnt sopping wet and there is some heat in the room they are in each tile should dry out very quickly.

If you lean the tiles agains the wall face to face with a good few cm space between the two faces at floor point that give the air a chance to circulate and by the time you've done them all the first lot will be ready to give a light coat of sealant. The strong cleaners should only be necessary on slate and other tiles that have a riven surface as they are super dusty. Be careful not to use anything too abrasive or acidic as the travertine surface will be damaged.

Hope this helps.

Abbi

 

[poppyhendy]

BTW, stone tiles are wet cut so often the dampness is just that they were stored tightly packed, straight from cutting and never had the chance to dry out. Abbi

 

[Alan.P]

Hi poppyhendry, :welcome: to tilersforums.com, some great advice there, why don't you say hi in the new members section

 

[Beags]

Hi Everyone,

I've spent the weekend removing all tiles, old plasterboard and old 6mm ply floor and have now pretty much replaced the plasterboard ready for plumbing and tiling etc.

Thinking ahead alittle now, I've bought a Vitrex Pro 750 for cutting the travertine but I have not, until now, given condsideration to edge cuts and polishing for my tiles around the windowsill for example. I've done some searches and it would seem that "edge" cuts are probably the best option for a diyer but I don't know much about what I need for the job and secondly how I polished the rought edges.

Can anyone offer any advice for the simplest solution without it costing the earth?

Cheers
Chris

 

[mikethetile]

hi beags and welcome

interesting job, just one point ensure you brace and overboard floor with 18mm ply before tiling

 

[ohhnoo]

Hi Everyone,

I've spent the weekend removing all tiles, old plasterboard and old 6mm ply floor and have now pretty much replaced the plasterboard ready for plumbing and tiling etc.

Thinking ahead alittle now, I've bought a Vitrex Pro 750 for cutting the travertine but I have not, until now, given condsideration to edge cuts and polishing for my tiles around the windowsill for example. I've done some searches and it would seem that "edge" cuts are probably the best option for a diyer but I don't know much about what I need for the job and secondly how I polished the rought edges.

Can anyone offer any advice for the simplest solution without it costing the earth?

Cheers
Chris

I would also like to know whats best for rounding off then polishing edges for window sill etc, I thought take the sharp top corner off with a diamond wheel followed by shapeing with a diamond file then polishing up with wet and dry. i'm going to give it a go on an offcut to see how good a finish I get.

 

[faithhealer]

Hi Everyone,

I've spent the weekend removing all tiles, old plasterboard and old 6mm ply floor and have now pretty much replaced the plasterboard ready for plumbing and tiling etc.

Thinking ahead alittle now, I've bought a Vitrex Pro 750 for cutting the travertine but I have not, until now, given condsideration to edge cuts and polishing for my tiles around the windowsill for example. I've done some searches and it would seem that "edge" cuts are probably the best option for a diyer but I don't know much about what I need for the job and secondly how I polished the rought edges.

Can anyone offer any advice for the simplest solution without it costing the earth?

Cheers
Chris

Use the manufactured edge showng and put your cut edges 'to the back'.

As for being without a loo, just connect the pan up (take the cistern off) with a flexi pan connector and use a bucket to flush!

 

[ohhnoo]

Use the manufactured edge showng and put your cut edges 'to the back'.

As for being without a loo, just connect the pan up (take the cistern off) with a flexi pan connector and use a bucket to flush!

I think he was talking about the manufacturers edge, I know I was. This edge has sharp corners which chip very easily so in my opinion it would be better to round off or chamfer the exposed corner and polish to match the honed surface.

 

[Beags]

Thanks faithhealer.

Ohhnoo, yes, it's the manufacturers edge that i want to soften. I think it's an ease cut that I've seen whereby one edge of the tile is removed at about 45 degrees to the face (only a couple of mm) and then polished in some way.

That's what I would like to achieve if possible.

Can someone tell me what tools I will need to do this job?

By the way, had a good day today. Things are taking a lot longer than expected but today I finished laying hardibacker on the floor, all the plumbing is ready, walls plasterboarded the last couple of days so tomorrow I'm onto tiling the floor then hopefully the walls over the weekend. Things should start to take shape now... slowly!

Cheers
Chris

 

[Daz]

It sounds like it's taking shape Chris :lol:. Is there a specific reason why you will be doing the floor first? You will get a lot of adhesive and other mess dropping on the floor when you do the walls. My advice is always do the walls first, leaving out the bottom cuts, then tile the floor, then do the last wall cuts.

Just a thought .

If you have a Fein Multimaster you can use the stone polishing kit to buff the edges, if not then you will need to experiment with a variety of very fine grade sand papers and blocks (not recommended). Why not apply the sealer to the edge of an off-cut, first, and see if you are happy with the finished result. It may save you a lot of time, expense and stress? Again, not recommended practice for a professional, however, it may well tick your boxes (no offence meant).

Good luck and I'm looking forward to seeing your pics .

Daz

 

[Beags]

Thanks Daz.

I read your message late last night and took your advice - started on the walls today. I did have a fair bit of adhesive hitting the floor so even if I'd covered the tiled floor it wouldn't have been ideal.

Managed to lay just 11 wall tiles this afternoon. They look great but it took a long time. The walls are not 100% true so with most of I laid them then had to remove to adjust levles of adhesive then lay again to get a clean finish - extremly satisfying though.

I used the Vitrex 750 for a few cuts. It worked ok but a few of them split a little as I fed the last inch or so through the blade which was annoying - maybe it's the standard blade i got with it or maybe it's just my technique. Where it didn't split it left quite a nice cut edge.... better than the manufacturers edge, so hopefully I can try as suggested and maybe just lightly sand the sharp edge then seal. I'd like a multimaster but I'm working to a faily tight budget.

Not going to be finished buy Monday but should have broken the back of it I reckon.

Cheers
Chris

 

[Daz]

Take your time Chris you will be more than pleased with the end results.

Don't force the tile through the cutter, let it find it's own way (so to speak) and you will damage less cuts.

When working with stone, patience is definitely a virtue .

Good luck.

 

[Beags]

Cheers. Also, I meant "by" not "buy" - schoolboy

 

[Scott]

Try cutting one side of the tile first, about an inch or so then turn the tile round and cut from the other side. It should stop that last piece splitting or breaking off.

 

[Beags]

Thanks Scottley. I tried this technique today and was having better success.

Laid most of the floor today (about 5 sq metres) and a couple of wall tiles so about half the walls and bath panel to do now.... plus a few other jobs.

I'm starting to think about sealing etc. I bought a couple of litres of Lithofin MN Stain Stop to seal but I am now, following recommendation, considering applying a coat of Lithofin MN Colour Intensifer as well.

Can I apply the intensifer before the Stain Stop? I've read that the Colour Intensifer does have so sealing properties but that this is not the products main function. I would like to bring out the natural tones in the stone but don't want to waste the Stain Stop I've already purchased.

Can I use both and have the desired effect?

Cheers
Chris