Discuss How to check if your spirit level is "out" in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

C

cornish_crofter

Dave, wetdecs

getting things straight on the barge was important. Obviously getting the kitchen worksurfaces level was the ideal but dead level one minute would not be dead level the next.

If you've ever tried to use ANY level on a boat, even a water level, you will know that even a relitively small variation of weight distribution from one end or side to another can put paid to two given points being level.

If you and I held each end of a water level against the bottom of a window on this barge when the barge was dead level, whilst the tide went out and the barge settled on the uneven mudbank, the levels in the water level would still be level, but they would not be in line with the windows any more.

So, the next best thing was to get surfaces that would have ideally been dead horizontal/vertical true to structual features that the guys knew would be pretty close to level most of the time.

Perhaps the only level that could be used is a laser level. But this would need to be lined up with features on the barge, not on the level.

My head hurts now......

You'll never have to worry about it unless you fix tiles on a barge.
 
L

Leatherface

Dave, wetdecs

getting things straight on the barge was important. Obviously getting the kitchen worksurfaces level was the ideal but dead level one minute would not be dead level the next.

If you've ever tried to use ANY level on a boat, even a water level, you will know that even a relitively small variation of weight distribution from one end or side to another can put paid to two given points being level.

If you and I held each end of a water level against the bottom of a window on this barge when the barge was dead level, whilst the tide went out and the barge settled on the uneven mudbank, the levels in the water level would still be level, but they would not be in line with the windows any more.

So, the next best thing was to get surfaces that would have ideally been dead horizontal/vertical true to structual features that the guys knew would be pretty close to level most of the time.

Perhaps the only level that could be used is a laser level. But this would need to be lined up with features on the barge, not on the level.

My head hurts now......

You'll never have to worry about it unless you fix tiles on a barge.

:dizzy2::dizzy2::dizzy2::dizzy2::dizzy2::dizzy2:
I feel seasick reading that !!!!! :dizzy2::dizzy2:
 
C

cornish_crofter

Sorry hugo..just pullin your leg......:lol:

you do use a fixed datum on the boat and tranfer from there...this datum of course must be a fixed type of level..if the boat was level...

It wasn't you Dave, it was tony talking about using water levels on a boat. Any tool that works on the principle of gravity on board a floating vessel is doomed, I tell you DOOMED!!!!!!!!!!!!

He may well have been widing me up..........;)

Nick - Don't worry about the sea sickness, just keep taking the pills.
 
M

murf

I used to tile floors on ships under construction
in a local shipyard. When a ship is in dry dock it is not
sitting level so spirit levels are useless. We used to screed the
floors with cement and sand using a batten with a nail in either end,
the required thickness, and just follow the shape of the plate metal floor
 
S

STEVEROG

Gents, why not build your own reference, all you need is a length of clear plastic tubing. Fill the tube with water, fix it to any reasonably flat wall using whatever you like with the two open ends vertical and as far apart as you can get them. Now mark the two points where the water settles to in the two vertical sections of the tube. Take the tube away and get your string line out and strike a straight line between the two points you marked. The resulting line is the best horizonally level line you can get, no arguments.

You can then use this to calibrate your naff levels by simply adding new marks to show where true is. Note this technique for finding level is thousands of years old and still used today.

Steve
 
C

cornish_crofter

Gents, why not build your own reference, all you need is a length of clear plastic tubing. Fill the tube with water, fix it to any reasonably flat wall using whatever you like with the two open ends vertical and as far apart as you can get them. Now mark the two points where the water settles to in the two vertical sections of the tube. Take the tube away and get your string line out and strike a straight line between the two points you marked. The resulting line is the best horizonally level line you can get, no arguments.

You can then use this to calibrate your naff levels by simply adding new marks to show where true is. Note this technique for finding level is thousands of years old and still used today.

Steve

Steve, we've just covered that ;) These are called water levels, and despite what the name may suggest they are useless on board a floating vessel of any kind.
 

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