Straight edges

[Sean Kelly]

Rubi battens (although I don't like them) and I use old levels as the straight ledge. I sometimes put blobs of Silicon to stick them to the wall. I also use slithers of tile to stop them sagging in the middle.

 

[Stef]

I use a pack of cheap levels I picked up at ScrewFix, they are drilled about every 30/40mm & if I can't fix them with screws into timber studs then I use a glue gun to fix them.
Mark a datum line with my stabila or laser then fix levels unless I'm straight off the floor.

 

[David Rowell]

Thanks everyone for your input/responses all much appreciated. :hurray:

 

[area tiling]

I use 10mm mdf door stop as battens , good consistent straight edge not like the pine or treated timber battens , that bow !!

 

[Andy Allen]

Never use battons......if the tiles are not heavy then draw a line half way up the wall and tile down using a non slip adhesive.......With heavy tiles cut the first row in and tile up....I find it much quicker doing it this way

 

[cone]

Never use battons......if the tiles are not heavy then draw a line half way up the wall and tile down using a non slip adhesive.......With heavy tiles cut the first row in and tile up....I find it much quicker doing it this way

Non slip adhesive moves a slight touch does it not?

 

[afright]

Level line, full tile or tiles then tack an oval nail under tile then infill with cut tile

 

[Andy Allen]

Non slip adhesive moves a slight touch does it not?

Just keep checking it till it gose off....but I've never had a problem..

 

[widler]

I'm curious why you have 'battened it out' when there's a perfectly level surface with the worktops?

 

[cam_low]

12mm MDF sheet cut down free of charge by B&Q into battens sized at 40mm. paslode or screwed in. rapid set first row in remove batten and tile up over.