most of the deflection in a wood floor is in the floor joists, this shock absorbing bounce is deliberate and calculated, to tile over the bounce or deflection needs to be taken out or the job will fail

with fixing to battens onto a concrete base there is no joist bounce, if the chipboard flooring is laid brick bond pattern with glued joints it becomes as one and there is virtually no deflection, hence chippies insisting that chipboard flooring is stronger than ply,

chip board is chipped wood glued and compressed into a board, green cb uses a waterproof glue which will resist breaking down when wet

however the compressed surface of chipbard will not resist mechanicly pulling the tiles up. this job appears to have been a success due to lack of deflection in the floor and hence no cracked grout, but the tiles adherance is only as strong as the facing of the chipboard , which believe me is easily delaminated
 
just reporting back that my 48msq of tiles are still all firmly fixed and totally crack free. that's now just about 2 yrs since they were laid.

that's now a pretty long test period - floor has had lots of heavy usage and weekly washes over the past 2 years. i'm pretty sure that it will remain touble free but i will further report back if there are any signs of problems.
 
update - floor still perfect after another year, that's now over 3 yrs since laying.

i see there's still lots of debate on tiling onto floor grade (green t&g) chipboard & i thought the forum would be interested in my positive update.
 
thanks for the update but as professionals we do have to get it right every ​ time to keep our reputations' intact, complacency can be our downfall, but nonetheless I'm glad to hear that you've had no problems thus far:thumbsup:
 
nice to hear your floors still going strong, perhaps you could post some photos of the floor on the forum, we always like to look at pics of tiling on here.:thumbsup:..
 
I just looked at a utility floor , the builder wants me to tile onto the chipboard , but im not doing it even with an S2 adhesive, im using 6mm aquapanel cement boards, that way i can rest easy at nights... glad your floor is still good :thumbsup:
 
Ok, just tried to copy and paste photo of the floor - but couldn't get it to paste into here. any advice?
 
Ok, just tried to copy and paste photo of the floor - but couldn't get it to paste into here. any advice?

hi there, you need to make sure your photo is of a certain size and format. I cannot recall the exact requirements but usually if you can't get a pic to upload on to here, it's because it's too big. try scaling it down a little. I'll have a look for the size requirements and post them up for you.
 
Just read this thread with interest, i carried out a repair just last week on a tiled bathroom floor, tiled directly on too green sheets, about half the floor had failed, floor about 6 m2. I told the home owner that it needs a total strip out as you cannot tile directly to this subrate. He is selling his house so the repair was just a "get him by". wish i had taken photos so i could have posted on here!
 
hi there, you need to make sure your photo is of a certain size and format. I cannot recall the exact requirements but usually if you can't get a pic to upload on to here, it's because it's too big. try scaling it down a little. I'll have a look for the size requirements and post them up for you.

2400 x 1200 is the maximum photo size that can be uploaded. the forum accepts most photo formats. don't forget to click on Go Advanced button and go to the Paperclip icon to attach the photo's. Hope this helps.
 

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