Which UFH Screed (Thin)

[Sheldon Overs]

Thanks Guys

This part of house was extended in 1994 and block and beam put in.
The other part of house is 1967 so is timber suspended which I will have to do without screed system.

The 100mm insulation is irrelevant to myself as its a retrofit renovation and there is no requirement for building inspector on retrofit underfloor heating.

Any advice on pipe size, 16mm or the 22/25?
Do you tile straight onto these liquid screeds?

Thanks

Sheldon

 

[Uheat - Jake]

Thanks Guys

This part of house was extended in 1994 and block and beam put in.
The other part of house is 1967 so is timber suspended which I will have to do without screed system.

The 100mm insulation is irrelevant to myself as its a retrofit renovation and there is no requirement for building inspector on retrofit underfloor heating.

Any advice on pipe size, 16mm or the 22/25?
Do you tile straight onto these liquid screeds?

Thanks

Sheldon

With 80 to 130mm height to play with I'd defintely look at going for a Inscreed system over a retrofix system. Not only are the material costs significantly lower, the inscreed system would be the most efficent system you can install.

 

[Sheldon Overs]

Thanks Jake. I was worried that with only 30mm insulation it wouldnt be as good. However I also have seen people retrofit it with NO insulation (might be a solid floor, rather than block and beam), and claiming heating bills are the same. You have put my mind at rest, just need to crack out with the kango drill!

 

[Uheat - Jake]

Thanks Jake. I was worried that with only 30mm insulation it wouldnt be as good. However I also have seen people retrofit it with NO insulation (might be a solid floor, rather than block and beam), and claiming heating bills are the same. You have put my mind at rest, just need to crack out with the kango drill!

If you went with the Screed Ajax mentioned then you'd be able to squeeze more insulation into the project than just 30mm. If you'd like a quote for materials or any install advice please feel free to give me a call.

 

[Sheldon Overs]

Thanks Jake.
I will do, its a 6 bedroom home that I cant find a contractor to do without me moving out for 4 weeks, so Im having to do most of it myself and splitting house into 2 and doing 2 manifolds.

 

[Ajax123]

Thanks Jake.
I will do, its a 6 bedroom home that I cant find a contractor to do without me moving out for 4 weeks, so Im having to do most of it myself and splitting house into 2 and doing 2 manifolds.

4 weeks to do underfloor heating and screed in a 6 bedder. You've clearly not looked very hard... I reckon that's 3 days work. 1 day to insulate edge strip and polythene, 1 day to pipe up to manifold and 1 day to screed.

 

[Sheldon Overs]

Its more work than that! The floors have been screeded at the min, so digging all that out to start! Insulation on the timber and all the floors up. I know what your getting at tho. Feel free to recommend anyone round Warwick that would do this tho, Ive rang soo many people with no real luck.

 

[Ajax123]

Give me a call tomorrow and we can have a chat about it. 07966651006

 

[david mccullough]

i put a calcium sulphate, hemihydrate, pump applied liquid floor screed. 40mm depth, in my house, with ufh, it's made by a german company, RTU is the company that supplies it over here in N.Ireland, there's bound to be a supplier over in your area. now i waited two years before i tiled the floors!!!😀 there was all that noise going about floors lifting at that time, also to see where it would crack, there wasn't too many and i used matting over any cracks , although the main reason was getting motivated to do it🙄. i used matting over any cracks and nearly 2 years later again, no cracks have appeared, i have 7" of insulation below my floor😀 used "passive house" standards for the insulation thickness.

 

[Ajax123]

There's a lot of anhydrite in northern Ireland these days. Most of it is from crh roadstone.