dot and dab

[Chalker]

There's Trusted Advisor talk right there

Ive swallowed a dictionary, since getting a green thingy.

 

[WetSaw]

When I came home with a green thingy the dictionary was shoved elsewhere...

 

[One Day]

I used to grout them but I read not to? Think it was impish !

The plastic is flimsy, it was a wedi one on this occasion, grout would certainly crack

Nooooo! I've never advised that. Totally the contrary.

 

[Flintstone]

Must have been some one else! Do you grout upto a plastic drain ?

 

[One Day]

Must have been some one else! Do you grout upto a plastic drain ?

The wedi drains need seating on blobs (yes blobs!) of adhesive on each corner, that allows water to drain below the tiles. If you Silicon round the grate holder it can block it all up.
Accept that grout will allow water through, but it must get down the drain, not get trapped around it.

 

[Flintstone]

I did just that, sat it on blobs.
Imp I'm sorry to upset you but if you go to about 9 min 30


Now where's my green label!

 

[One Day]

Ok, but that's not how i was taught at wedi Manchester. That's a US video i think and we all know what Jeremy Clarkson thinks about our American cousins!

I'll stick with grout, but as i like to say - if it works for you, do it!

 

[Flintstone]

He's as English as egg and chips !
Personally I don't mind which way i do it just want to do it the right way. Grouting is easier of course.

 

[Old Mod]

Now where's my green label!

 

[One Day]

He's as English as egg and chips !
Personally I don't mind which way i do it just want to do it the right way. Grouting is easier of course.

no sound, my bad, sorry!

 

[Italy]

I read the trends, what to say ?.
Here in Italy, the story is different, all the walls are sand and cement, or similar.
90% of the works have crooked walls, then perfection is achieved only as said @Ste450 . I use the same +/- the same system, only add a layer of adhesive with the toothed blade, before application. Unfortunately, the advent of large formats requires me mostly the same system and also confirm that the tile is more clinging with this system, the only tiles that I saw fall from the walls were only applied with a serrated blade.
I'm not talking to pose with (dab or whatever the cazzo you say), he's talking about a draft of 80/90% of adhesive, the tile and beating with a rubber hammer.
with a thickness of 10mm limit, otherwise proceed with a shaving before installation, this system is not applicable with small sizes, with smaller sizes, proceed with shaving of the walls.
speaking of history, in the early days that I started, the tiles were applied with lime and the process is +/- the same, then? . Now what do we do? If they are not worthy to call me pro tiler, remove to me all the colored badge, is not a problem for me. I'm just more than 30 years that I do this job, no one has ever called me to tell me, the tiles are falling off the wall, it's just luck ?. maybe yes.
P.S. internal shower, should be cared much more to prevent water seepage and thin tiles with this system is NOT APPLICABLE.

 

[LM]

Just to clarify then, dot and dabing is not the same as solid bedding within adhesive limits ??















Lol

 

[Ste450]

I read the trends, what to say ?.
Here in Italy, the story is different, all the walls are sand and cement, or similar.
90% of the works have crooked walls, then perfection is achieved only as said @Ste450 . I use the same +/- the same system, only add a layer of adhesive with the toothed blade, before application. Unfortunately, the advent of large formats requires me mostly the same system and also confirm that the tile is more clinging with this system, the only tiles that I saw fall from the walls were only applied with a serrated blade.
I'm not talking to pose with (dab or whatever the cazzo you say), he's talking about a draft of 80/90% of adhesive, the tile and beating with a rubber hammer.
with a thickness of 10mm limit, otherwise proceed with a shaving before installation, this system is not applicable with small sizes, with smaller sizes, proceed with shaving of the walls.
speaking of history, in the early days that I started, the tiles were applied with lime and the process is +/- the same, then? . Now what do we do? If they are not worthy to call me pro tiler, remove to me all the colored badge, is not a problem for me. I'm just more than 30 years that I do this job, no one has ever called me to tell me, the tiles are falling off the wall, it's just luck ?. maybe yes.
P.S. internal shower, should be cared much more to prevent water seepage and thin tiles with this system is NOT APPLICABLE.

I always use a botched trowel with smaller

I read the trends, what to say ?.
Here in Italy, the story is different, all the walls are sand and cement, or similar.
90% of the works have crooked walls, then perfection is achieved only as said @Ste450 . I use the same +/- the same system, only add a layer of adhesive with the toothed blade, before application. Unfortunately, the advent of large formats requires me mostly the same system and also confirm that the tile is more clinging with this system, the only tiles that I saw fall from the walls were only applied with a serrated blade.
I'm not talking to pose with (dab or whatever the cazzo you say), he's talking about a draft of 80/90% of adhesive, the tile and beating with a rubber hammer.
with a thickness of 10mm limit, otherwise proceed with a shaving before installation, this system is not applicable with small sizes, with smaller sizes, proceed with shaving of the walls.
speaking of history, in the early days that I started, the tiles were applied with lime and the process is +/- the same, then? . Now what do we do? If they are not worthy to call me pro tiler, remove to me all the colored badge, is not a problem for me. I'm just more than 30 years that I do this job, no one has ever called me to tell me, the tiles are falling off the wall, it's just luck ?. maybe yes.
P.S. internal shower, should be cared much more to prevent water seepage and thin tiles with this system is NOT APPLICABLE.

Thank you Antonio, someone who understands. Of course with smaller tiles and mosaics, I'll use a notched trowel, but these days larger tiles are more commonly being used. Larger tiles are more commonly bowed as well, especially Villroy Boch which the largest tile I've laid was around 1200/500mm. The only way to get it so every joint is perfectly flush is to use this method, I don't want my joints out a 2/3mm or more, 1mm at the most.

In wet areas, obviously strive for 100% but your near enough always going to get a few small voids. I've read that wet areas take 6 months to dry out so any water caught in these small voids will find their way to the drain through gravity. With wet areas any problem will arise almost immediately after use. I tested one a few years back on a raised wet area. At the drain, I restricted the flow of water underneath the tiled surface and waited to see how long it would take for it to come through the ceiling (this is on my friends home with his consent) it wasn't long before water came through. After I put it back to normal...no problems at all there on

 

[Andy Allen]

How do you key the adhesive to the substrate if your just put loads of blobs on the tile?

 

[Ste450]

How do you key the adhesive to the substrate if your just put loads of blobs on the tile?

When you firmly push the tile onto the wall, the adhesive spreads out underneath, giving good coverage and a high bond. With all those badges you have on here, how can you not understand this concept or how adhesive adheres to a given substrate, it's simple stuff. Go and test it for yourself. Use a cement based rapid setting adhesive (Mapei Pro flex) The next day try and pull the tile off the wall...you'll bring all the plasterboard with it or if on a solid wall, you'll have to chisel it off. Do you not understand how drywall dot and dab works or how the adhesive bonds to the brick/block and plasterboard?