My DIY bathroom refit - Lots of advice needed

[dazzler9000]

I’m embarking on my DIY tiling project. I’ve got lots of questions so I’m hoping you can help me out!!

I’m going to be gutting my bathroom and having a new bathroom suite including a freestanding bath. I’ll be fitting new tiles on the walls and floor. I’ll be using a Norton clipper TT200EM to make the cuts.

The bath will have a mixer tap and shower attachment so the room shouldn't get that wet.

I’ll be using quartz on the floor (300x600), gloss white ceramics for the walls (300x600)and mosaics for a feature wall and window ledge.

Questions!!

1 – The walls are plasterboard and plastered. They have been painted and they have a slight ripple effect on them? Not sure what this is as it was there before we moved in. Will I need to flatten this out or can I tile straight on to it? Will I need to board the walls with a "no more ply" type product?

2 – Will I need to primer everything with an SBR primer?

3 – I currently have ply on the floor over the floor boards. Does this ply need to come up and be replaced with “no more ply” or equivalent

4 – Is it advised to use edging strips or try and join the tiles at the edges? If I go with edging strips, what’s the best finish to go for with gloss white tiles – White or silver? You chaps see this stuff all the time, what’s the best finish, flat or round?

5 – I’ve noticed that the tiles on a lot of websites I’ve seen are are arranged in a grid like fashion and not staggered. Is this the right way to do it or is it simply down to personal preference? Also I’ve noticed that 300x600 tiles can go in portrait or landscape orientation. Is there a right or wrong way to do them and what looks best in your opinion?

6 – Which spacers would I use between tiles (2mm?)

7 - Cutting the edge tile in half on mosaics – (I’ve asked this question on another thread but I may as well ask it here for addition comments). I’m going to be laying two rows of mosaics and I’m a little nervous about the amount of cutting I’m going to have to do, any advice on cutting those nuisance edge tiles.




Adhesives

8 – Walls - Do I need a flexible adhesive for the Walls? Would something like this be OK?
Slow Set Wall/Floor Tile Adhesive Grey 20kg (Adesilex P9)

Do I need something different for the glass/stone mosaics?

9 - Floor - Guessing this would be OK for the floors - Fast Setting Flexible Quartz Tile Adhesive Grey 2 Part

Grouts

10 – I’ve used the Kerapoxy epoxy grout before in my kitchen floor and quite liked it. Should I use this again on the bathroom floor as it will get a little wet?

11 – As the kerapoxy is expensive, would the “Keracolour FF White 5kg” be OK for the walls considering I’m not planning on having water splashing on them all day long?


Sorry for the overload of questions but I’d rather get it right first time :hurray:

 

[prceramics]

you going for the post count record ash ?

ps i would stack the tiles and not bond epecialy as its diy 🙂

 

[Mr Tiler]

you going for the post count record ash ?

ps i would stack the tiles and not bond epecialy as its diy 🙂

lol was a bit bored last night so thought id jump on and give a few posts

 

[Mr Tiler]

but after grouting 2 en-suites, 2 bathrooms and 6 sink splash's I don't think I can do it again tonight lol

 

[dazzler9000]

Is the stack pattern a lot easier then? I used the running bond when I did my kitchen floor and didn't have too many issues. At least I may be making life easier for myself by using the stack for the walls.....

I used the Epoxy grout in the kitchen and I found it strangely satisfying.... That sounds weird 🙂 BTW, would I need a flexible grout for the bathroom floor? Wooden floorboards overlayed with no more ply or hardibacker?




Mr T, I don't have a dry cutter just a wet.... I have a decent grinder with cutting blade or somebody suggested using a dry cutting blade in my wet saw....

 

[dazzler9000]

I was only going to go for the 'no more ply' as they sell it where I'm getting my tiles from. Presumably it's the equivalent of Hardibacker?

 

[Mr Tiler]

I havnt used no more ply so cant comment bud only ever used hardie but that is your call 😉, as for the grinder or wet saw for these cuts id mark the cuts with a straight edge and use the grinder but be careful some blades will chip the tile edge away that's why a wet saw is used

 

[The D]

but after grouting 2 en-suites, 2 bathrooms and 6 sink splash's I don't think I can do it again tonight lol

so you finished at breakfast then :smilewinkgrin:

 

[Mr Tiler]

Lol eye on 4 0clock mate was hard graft same again tuesday

 

[RDTiling]

I was only going to go for the 'no more ply' as they sell it where I'm getting my tiles from. Presumably it's the equivalent of Hardibacker?

NMP is an equivalent of Hardie. If you can get NMP from the same place as your tiles, then you might as well get that.

I think the main difference is in the installation of the boards. NMP uses its own adhesive that is applied to the back of the board via a silicon gun and is then screwed to the floor using 25mm NMP screws. With Hardie, you need to comb a non-flexible tile adhesive to the floor and then screw down. (many on here have used flexible adhesive with no problem).

I cant remember if NMP board joints need to be taped, so check with your stockist.

The boards should ideally be laid in a brick bond pattern.

 

[dazzler9000]

4, white, chrome, square or round is down to prefference... I personally with white ceramic would go for either square white or round depending on the utilities in the room. Just be sure you get the correct size trim for the thickness of tile you plan to use

Quick question about trim, my tiles are going to be 8mm thick. Would I use a 10mm tile trim?

When tiling to the ceiling, is it best to use a tile trim touching the ceiling? It hadn't occurred to me but I saw a photo of a bathroom that had used them?