By definition, a floating floor has movement in it and every adhesive company and indeed BS say to remove the movement which is difficult if it aint fixed to anything. If you tile a floating floor and it goes **** up after a few months, not only will you have to rectify it at your expense, your reputation will be damaged too.
 
Arn said ''the ceramic tiled floor that was down previously was absoultely fine with no signs of cracks or any tiles lifting''.

so what's your point, andy?

the point is if you are going to guarantee your work and gain a good reputation laying tiles down in the wrong situation is not the correct thing to do.

just because it was fine in the 1st instance does not under any circumstances make it correct and it also doesnt mean it wont fail the 2nd time!!
 
Out of interest Arn ,did you lay this floating floor and if so how did you go about it ?? and before anyone says-im not about to lay on one lol:lol:
 
firstly PJC dont insult me.im fully insured and never do a bad job ......... and KILTY55 thats rite i am qualified and do know what materials to use i.e addys and grouts but i was just wanting to know if there's anything else out there differnt to what i use all the time.i.e something designed for that.like i say this would have been the first time ive come acroos a tile over floating floor job.and tbf ive got nvq2, diploma level 2 and city guilds and went to plymouth CFE and in the whole course there were know mention of not to tile over a floating floor.'ive even checked all notes and paperwork from college'. :smilewinkgrin: this is meant to be a forum to give people advice and help if needed.not take the mic out of other tiler or try make me look UN professional.any way for any one else that wants to know the customer has two choices now which are: 'the floating floor has been ripped out and then have a concrete screed layed down' 0r ' i lay hardi board over chipboard and screw and glue'. down side to hardi board is that doesn't give me enough clearance on the double glazed back door, especially as theres 15mm natural slate and 10mm addy and 12mm hardi board. :hurray:

I don't think there's any need for this attitude. You've come on here for some advice and when given you seem intent on ignoring it and arguing against it.
If its unlikely that you will like the answer then don't ask the question.
 
Guys, this thread is from last summer. Again, it is a very interesting and well debated thread about tiling on chipboard floating floors.
 
oh I get it....is there no way to mark out the beams underneath and fix the boards down with screws? there must be a way to fix these type of floors or make them sturdier
 
Sorry GRR. Still getting to grips with tapatalk. Was showing as unread

it's fine Ali, it's showing up in your unread list because judge commented on it last night. It's quite a significant topic at the moment because there is another thread that has been started recently about the same topic. if there is new information or insight into this thread, then please carry on posting with your comments.
 
oh I get it....is there no way to mark out the beams underneath and fix the boards down with screws? there must be a way to fix these type of floors or make them sturdier

mr tiler, this will be one of the biggest lessons you will learn as a tiler - understanding your substrate, all the variables that could affect it such as UFH systems, applicable materials such as the correct adhesives and grouts, and even the type of tiles being used on the job.

as can be seen from this thread and the other thread that is currently live on this topic, the pro's don't like chipboard and anything that floats. Adding other variables that are difficult to be controlled will make the job harder to tile successfully and which is why most pro's won't tile a job like this.
 

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