Dewalt D24000 hints / tips and accessories thread

[DHTiling]

Steve (peckers) knows the serial numbers of his "mis-placed" machine, perhaps some serial numbers may start to fall in place?

Let me know if you would like me to make some discreet enquiries Steve?

Daz

Do it i say.

 

[Gazzer]

They will be economical with their answers if the do answer at all !!!!

 

[peckers]

im gonna go and check these out

 

[fulabeer]

Hoping to add a QEP laser tomorrow.
I think i have found a way to attach it without altering/drilling the saw housing.
There is a small plate that holds the water pipe at the front-left of the wheel house.
I'm hoping i can use that screw/plate to hold my lasers bracket.
It will simply be a matter of unscrewing the screw, adding my bracket and re-screwing.
I found a bath "wall bracket" that looks like it will be ideal.
It is already bent 90', but with a small u bend in it.
This will allow a little vibration/movement and make adjusting it easier.
I'm not sure how rust resistant it will be, but if it works i have a few spare brackets that i could get rust proofed.

I will post back tomorrow with pictures...

Well it's on and working! (took about ten minutes in total)

First job was to attach the bracket
Here is the original screw i used.


Here is the bracket that is for holding baths to the wall!


Bracket fitted


QEP laser (from my old QEP Pro 900)


Laser fitted and working (no that's not a new type of tile! Just used to show laser line)


You can adjust the laser sideways by using the two screws on the bracket.
For skew adjustment (so laser lines up from to back etc), use the small screw on the bottom of lens/laser.

Perfect alignment!!!


So that's it. The laser line is actually much thinner than it looks in the picture. (it's about 1mm)
I think the camera phones lens is flaring the light because it is so bright.
The bracket is actually holding the laser very strongly, and everything seems solid.
I'm hoping, it proves quite robust.

I know some think lasers are gimmicks, but they are great for speeding you up.
Just mark the tile, and then line up with the laser and cut....simples

 

[DHTiling]

Thank you for taking the time to put this together..

I'm sure some others will want one..

 

[tommyzooom]

It looks great

 

[merlecollins]

Cool I want one:lol:

Slightly off track, but has anyone else noticed the silver paint flaking off the saw arm o their machine?

 

[fulabeer]

My D24000 is fairly new, so no flaking. (yet)
How old is your machine?

 

[merlecollins]

My D24000 is fairly new, so no flaking. (yet)
How old is your machine?

About 7months.....

 

[DHTiling]

Cool I want one:lol:

Slightly off track, but has anyone else noticed the silver paint flaking off the saw arm o their machine?

Nope and mine gets used a lot... must be the sea air..:lol:

 

[Gazzer]

No flakey paint here .

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I will have to check for flakes, not noticed any, but that laser look like a brilliant idea imo

 

[fulabeer]

Ok, next up, adjusting the roller/bed guide.
This may be done if your cuts are not perfectly straight, or the rear of the cutting wheel is catching the tile.

When i first used my D24000, the cut was perfect.
I noticed after a while, one side (the right-hand side) of the tile cut was starting to get very slightly ragged.
On closer inspection, i could see the tile was (very slightly) touching the rear of the cutting wheel.
Because the rear of the wheel has a "upwards" action, it was chipping the glaze slightly.
I assume this is just the machine bedding in, and should be ok after adjustment.

So i thought i would adjust the guide rail.
It's a simple job, and you use the allen key provided.

Because your guide rail/bed should be near enough accurate in the first place, you shouldn't need a set square.
If it is far out, just use a set square first, and then micro adjust afterwards.
I'm talking about a very fine adjustment, just to get the cutting wheel 100% true.

In my case the tile was slightly rough to the rightside cut, so i reasoned that the guide rail needed adjusting a little to the left.

First thing to do is mark the current position.(also remove the slide/cutting bed!)
This pic shows where i marked mine.(using a pencil)



You have to slacken the four screw holding the guide rail. They might be stiff, but they will loosen.
This pick shows one of the screws.



Here is the front screw. (you must slacken all four!)


To actually adjust the rail, use the side mounted dial/button. (shown here)


It is easy to see how much you are adjusting the rail as long as you pre marked the rail platform!
I moved my rail 1mm to the left. It was enough to sort my problem completely.

Once you are happy, just re-tighten the four screws.
Have a go at cutting a tile, and see if it needs more or less....

 

[DHTiling]

Mine chips very lightly on the right side.. So great adjustment tip here..

 

[astute1]

Qustion about the slide table ruler. Is it in metric, one of the photos of it I noticed an inch measurement on it. I assumed as they were being sold in the UK the ruler would be metric.

I am thinking seriously about privately importing one to NZ, They are not available here or Australia, the 240 v supply there is the same as nz. Spoke to Dewalt NZ who stated that they were not looking to import then any time in the forsseable future. Also If they didnt import then they would not assist in warranty or parts. So I will have to forgo the warranty. ( were really helpful " not " Looks like a really great machine though and worth the effort