Should We Used Old Methods For Todays Problems

[Spare Tool]

from start to finish its a 3 day job for me and my son
hes never done a floor this way so want to do it to show him how easy it can be .if the guy puts a anhydrite leveller down hes pushing it to have it ready by july 25th
ive give him a price ,and can fit him in end june and saving him money and stress hes already had a 7 week delay with his conservatory and the money I can save him will probably pay for the drinks bill

I never mentioned an anhydrite leveller. At least 10mm Fibre reinforced leveller, ditra and tile next day?
So have a got this right to pay for a round or two of drinks your going to fix limestone using S&C straight on to UFH pipes, wait(how long) then switch the heating on...braver man than me

 

[Spare Tool]

didn't you say the leveller was going to cost £1500 or was that some one else

Wasn't me...roughly at 10mm you get a sqm per bag

 

[Just Rizzle]

I never mentioned an anhydrite leveller. At least 10mm Fibre reinforced leveller, ditra and tile next day?
So have a got this right to pay for a round or two of drinks your going to fix limestone using S&C straight on to UFH pipes, wait(how long) then switch the heating on...braver man than me

the ufh is going in this week and will be fully tested befor the screeding starts the ufh is covered with a layer of sand this acts as the decoupling then a dpm layed on top of the sand then we screed and bed in the tiles
your not getting my point being a slave to the likes of tops and ctd when you can do it at a 20th of the price and make far more profit .
its profit to cost at the end of the day
a 33mtr floor at a depth of 70 mm is 2,5 qubic mts

 

[Spare Tool]

the ufh is going in this week and will be fully tested befor the screeding starts the ufh is covered with a layer of sand this acts as the decoupling then a dpm layed on top of the sand then we screed and bed in the tiles
your not getting my point being a slave to the likes of tops and ctd when you can do it at a 20th of the price and make far more profit .
its profit to cost at the end of the day
a 33mtr floor at a depth of 70 mm is 2,5 qubic mts

Get your point totally Ray...i make dam near all my profit on labour and only add about 20% to trade price on materials I supply. I supply good quality materials at a price a lot cheaper than the customer can buy them without a trade account, if you've ever bought from tile giant they mark up customer prices by going on 100% so through me they save 80% and it's the customer that's paying in the end not me.
Am certainly not having a go or trinna get your back up regarding profit to cost, I'm genuinely interested on your take on it... so if your supplying the sand/cement etc how can you mark that up to turn out more of a profit than I do on a bag of rapid set or leveller, to me your not gonna make any more in materials than I do? Your just simply doing the job far more cheaper than I would be yet still probably making roughly the same in labour..

 

[Rizzle from the Portizzle]

from start to finish its a 3 day job for me and my son
hes never done a floor this way so want to do it to show him how easy it can be .if the guy puts a anhydrite leveller down hes pushing it to have it ready by july 25th
ive give him a price ,and can fit him in end june and saving him money and stress hes already had a 7 week delay with his conservatory and the money I can save him will probably pay for the drinks bill

its good to pass this on as you can show how you can screed and lay 30 m2 in a day with the two of you should be an easy lay the way some go on you would think you need a whole team with arms like grillas and you would be working all night i hope you can post some pics at each stage for the none beleavers who still havent worked out that they can use the tubs left over from there day to day adhesive to knock up bag adhesive in

 

[Just Rizzle]

Get your point totally Ray...i make dam near all my profit on labour and only add about 20% to trade price on materials I supply. I supply good quality materials at a price a lot cheaper than the customer can buy them without a trade account, if you've ever bought from tile giant they mark up customer prices by going on 100% so through me they save 80% and it's the customer that's paying in the end not me.
Am certainly not having a go or trinna get your back up regarding profit to cost, I'm genuinely interested on your take on it... so if your supplying the sand/cement etc how can you mark that up to turn out more of a profit than I do on a bag of rapid set or leveller, to me your not gonna make any more in materials than I do? Your just simply doing the job far more cheaper than I would be yet still probably making roughly the same in labour..

 

[Just Rizzle]

no because the material cost has gone down I am able to charge more for my labour because hes saving on having screeders come in dosnt need crack mat and adhesives etc im quoting him on a full package because my skills are now rare im getting nearly double my usual rate and its working out cheaper for him than what the conservatory company is quoting him. I haven't got the job yet but going to price a job tomorrow for an old client of mine who may have to take priority as its about 200 mts on to anhydrate and 4 bathrooms.
.

 

[Old Mod]

Far as I'm aware some wet UFH systems don,t need a 70mm screed over them, after testing they can have 10mm of fibre leveller over them, leave overnight then ditra and tile with flexi rapid set day after, can be grouted 3 hours after that.
I'm a new school tiler as only been at this 9 years so not picking holes in old methods i haven't ever used and unable to comment on but in my book that is progress

I had a scenario last year where Polypipe overlay UFH (cement board pipe inlay) was used and and the screed was so badly laid it was from +18 to -5mm out of level. I spoke in depth to both Polypipe and Schluter and Polypipe insisted that a liquid product like latex could not be used straight over their system, that it had to be boarded out first, however, they said if it had been laid to a flat surface I could just tiled straight over usin adhesive. I'm not disputing what you're saying but do you know what systems allow the latex on their product?

 

[Spare Tool]

I had a scenario last year where Polypipe overlay UFH (cement board pipe inlay) was used and and the screed was so badly laid it was from +18 to -5mm out of level. I spoke in depth to both Polypipe and Schluter and Polypipe insisted that a liquid product like latex could not be used straight over their system, that it had to be boarded out first, however, they said if it had been laid to a flat surface I could just tiled straight over usin adhesive. I'm not disputing what you're saying but do you know what systems allow the latex on their product?

No is the simple answer to that question, I can't name every UFH system I've tiled on but Webber advised it so I followed there advice and it's not let me down...

 

[Old Mod]

No is the simple answer to that question, I can't name every UFH system I've tiled on but Webber advised it so I followed there advice and it's not let me down...

As I said truly not disputing your methods or what u are saying, just keen to know. Boarding the Polypipe first before latex was a nightmare, even tho I'd marked exactly where all the pipes were on the Hardie I still stressed about clipping a pipe when it was screwed down. So being able to latex straight over would be a god send.
So the adhesive company gave u the instruction on latexing over the UFH not the UFH company itself, and u've employed this method every time? Regardless of the UFH system? I'm not digging u out! I just want to be clear how u came by the information, that's all.
Cheers.

 

[Spare Tool]

As I said truly not disputing your methods or what u are saying, just keen to know. Boarding the Polypipe first before latex was a nightmare, even tho I'd marked exactly where all the pipes were on the Hardie I still stressed about clipping a pipe when it was screwed down. So being able to latex straight over would be a god send.
So the adhesive company gave u the instruction on latexing over the UFH not the UFH company itself, and u've employed this method every time? Regardless of the UFH system? I'm not digging u out! I just want to be clear how u came by the information, that's all.
Cheers.

I have to tile onto the JG speedfit ufh system this week infact its being laid as I type...there spec sheet insists the pipework must be covered in a suitable 'floating' ply or 'floating' knauff brillo board.
I rang webber tech this morning and they said under no circumstances would they advise tiling onto a floating ply fitted over ufh and again insisted the pipes should be covered in 10mm of fibre flex leveller. I personally agree with webber on this and not the ufh manufacturer, can't get my head round tiling on floating ply..so that's the way I'm going to do the job, after levelling will be uncoupling before the tiles go down. Found this on the net...

Tiling onto under-floor heating pipes (solid substrates)


Piped heating systems are buried in reinforced cement/sand floating screeds of not less than 65mm thick. If a polymer-modified levelling screed is used it must cover the pipes by a minimum of 10mm. Weber's highly polymermodified adhesives and grouts have enough flexibility to accommodate thermally-induced movement.

Stage 1: Preparation

The heating pipes should be installed according to manufacturer's instructions, fixed down and tested prior to being encapsulated in a screed or levelling compound.

If the pipes have been laid in a reinforced cement/sand screed this must be allowed to dry fully prior to tiling. A sand/cement screed should be left for 3 weeks with the under-floor heating off to dry. After this period the heating system should be turned on and raised by a maximum of 5°C/day until the maximum recommended operating temperature is achieved. This temperature should be maintained for 3 days and then the system turned off and the screed allowed to cool to 15°C before tiling commences.

If weber.floor flex levelling compound is used to cover the pipes instead of a cement/sand screed, the drying time will be considerably shorter.

Ensure that the cured surface of the floor is rigid, sound, clean, dry and free from any contaminating barrier. Prime with weber PR360 and allow to dry.

 

[Old Mod]

That looks really interesting thank you.
I'm driving at the moment but I will read it when I get home (I'm dictating into my phone if you're wondering)

 

[J Sid]

I wonder what the cost different is between the Weber +10mm and the sand and cement a 65mm total thickness?
I my be doing a floor with Isocrete Self Level Renovation over wet ufh, anyone come across it? Walk on in 2 to 4 hours, 48 hours fully dry .

 

[Spare Tool]

I wonder what the cost different is between the Weber +10mm and the sand and cement a 65mm total thickness?
I my be doing a floor with Isocrete Self Level Renovation over wet ufh, anyone come across it? Walk on in 2 to 4 hours, 48 hours fully dry .

I'm sure its a lot more expensive, I know what I pay a bag and get roughly 1-1.5 sqm at 10mm out of a bag of leveller. never bought or priced up or screeded with S&C. sure Ray will better advise on that..

 

[Old Mod]

I have to tile onto the JG speedfit ufh system this week infact its being laid as I type...there spec sheet insists the pipework must be covered in a suitable 'floating' ply or 'floating' knauff brillo board.
I rang webber tech this morning and they said under no circumstances would they advise tiling onto a floating ply fitted over ufh and again insisted the pipes should be covered in 10mm of fibre flex leveller. I personally agree with webber on this and not the ufh manufacturer, can't get my head round tiling on floating ply..so that's the way I'm going to do the job, after levelling will be uncoupling before the tiles go down.

So does that not beg the question, who's to be blamed in the event of a failure?
You? Weber? UFH company?
Personally I'm with you! (I don't mean u should be blamed haha) Your method sounds far safer.
But why a floating ply, d'u know why?
Sorry more questions than answers.
In my own Experiance last year to get everyone on board I had to firstly fix the Polypipe down as best I could, ordinarily it's a loose lay system with the board edges glued together. Polypipe insisted that all levelling should take place prior installation, but it wasn't. Then under normal circumstances just tile straight over it. Once the UFH was fixed down I was then to overboard with a cement board or similar, basically something inert. Then I could level with latex, which I did, 34 bags for 43m2 ouch! Ditra and tile, that was the only way I could get a thumbs up from everyone.
So I'm not sure I'm any the wiser haha
But Nxt time this arises I'll have a lot more questions for tech departments.